I’ve been all about the raglan 3/4 sleeve for a long time and Deluxe has another beautifully simple option available. It’s easy to do, just pick a neutral and where… a lot.
I’m loving Bedwin’s “East LA gangsta on holiday” look with their Spring/Summer 2010 collection. The fact that their model looks like B-Real’s little brother drives that image home even further for me.
The looks featured here have a lot of the things I’m really feeling. Virtually every season Bedwin does a black crewneck sweater shirt with some sort of white print on it - classic in a badass motorcycle club kind of way. Perfect worn simply with denim or done, as seen above, with and oxford and patterned tie.
Other stand outs are the cropped chinos paired both with lightweight wallabees and a beefier soled chukka. And also, as I discussed yesterday, the Hawaiian printed shirt and short. Keep it a simple two-color option like these and you’ll be golden this Summer.
Images courtesy of SlamxHype.
Wings & Horns. It’s like nonnative but Canadian? Not really, but maybe more like nonnative-lite. In a season when nonnative goes black with bright color pops for Spring, Wings & Horns went super washed-out with a soft color palette. Essentially what you would normally expect this time of year from nonnative.
Although I wasn’t overwhelmed the W&H’s Spring showing there are some very nice items sprinkled throughout the collection.
A polo can easily make a guy look like a complete tool if the fit isn’t just right. These appear nice and trim which should help, but color and nice detailing will go a long way. And these have both of those as well. Heather grey, heather blue, and white (no hot pink and green stripes) and a subtle gingham button-down collar will help separate you from the average Joe.
I’ve gotten a lot of crap, even here at ND from Ninski, because of my endorsement of The Sweat Pant. But I’m sticking to my guns on this one. Just to be clear, I have never endorsed wearing this out and about casually everyday, and definitely do not do this myself. But I think there are completely appropriate times for this look… while traveling on intercontinental flights like I have previously stated, while hanging around your house, while taking out the trash, playing ball at the park on a cold fall day, etc. There are plenty of occasions where they are useful and stylish. But I do not endorse a hoody with the pant, go with a button up or sweater and anything from sneakers to Bean boots depending on the weather work fine. And if you do not own a pair, why not go with W&H’s recycled fleece version (above left), they look great on the body and I love the pocket stitch detail.
Everyone is going crazy over the field pant right now but I think W&H’s ventile version (above right) is a perfect alternative to the flap pocket versions flooding the market. It keeps your profile slim without adding any unnecessary bulk to your silhouette.
And finally, their Chambray short (left) and Gingham Cargo short (right) are perfect for a hot summer day. I personally don’t have many opportunities to wear shorts outside of the weekend and while on holiday, so I don’t have a need for more than a few in my drawer. But if you live in Aruba or the like you can pick up both.
I’m finally getting a chance to double back on my thoughts on all the ‘breaking fashion news’ that everyone has been racing to share.
nonnative always gets a lot of attention here, and I must say that there probably isn’t any other label in the world I’m more enamored with season after season - at least from a wearability point of view. Sadly it’s the same old story - not easily available and extremely expensive. A full-proof strategy on their part.
Their Spring/Summer 2010 collection brings us more of what we expect from them with their usual adjustments in color palette. They have a much stronger black story running through the line than you would typically expect in a Spring collection but it pairs perfectly with the intense royal and orange color pops within the collection. That bold trio of colors mix in very well with the softer side of the collection made up of washed and worn blues, heather grey, and natural earth tones. This season they mix up the collaborations a bit with boots by Tricker’s, eyewear with Kaneko Optical, and Birkenstock thongs.
Some of the true stand out items from the looks above are the black over-dyed oxford and courrier coat (top left) and the orange student blouson (top right). I will be breaking down the collection item by item in the coming days.
On my last trip to Los Angeles a label I saw a lot was KZO. I remember when I viewed the premier collection a few years ago it was a very Japanese “streetwear” inspired line called Kazuo. But how things have changed. The label has grown out of it’s Barracuda roots and is now sitting next to Ann Demeulemeester in sparse high-end boutiques all over the LA area. Oki-ni has a nice selection of items from KZO’s Spring collection. There is almost too little variation between some of their styles but two of my favorites are pictured above.
The knit jacket is like a soft not-so-durable engineer jacket - a play on the knit blazers seen from Band of Outsiders and Obedient Sons over the years. It really is just a perfect light grey marl and it’s topped off with metal buttons which is a nice variation from your typical nut buttons.
And I’m just loving the cropped sweat pant. This is another personal style thing for me that has come out of my frequent travels. I picked up a pair of the Crew’s sweatpants last year to wear on long flights. I would have picked up Save Khaki’s version but I couldn’t commit $100 for an item I wasn’t sure I would adopt into my lifestyle so easily. I have since begun wearing them to my early morning flights or changing into them at the airport or on the plane on flights that are later in the day. I’ll typically wear a deconstructed sport jacket and oxford tucked into the front and Italian sneakers of some sort. It’s a nice pairing in it’s own right, but it also makes it easy to keep a pair of pants or denim in your carry-on you look ready for a day of work or a night out the second you step off the plane.
Now that Winter is just about here it’s ironically becoming harder to think about Spring 2010 than it was a couple months ago, but Secret Forts is forcing the issue and has just published some scans of Oliver Spencer’s catalogue and there are some very nice things as usual. They are always great for tailored casual garments and they appear to be continuing to push the creeper wedge style they’ve done for a few seasons. It’s a fitting staple for the label’s English heritage. Every color and material combination is beautiful in it’s own way - and all made in the UK.
J.Crew has in many ways been the ultimate tease of a label over the last couple years for me. Let’s take the shirts pictured above for instance… can you say absolutely beautiful. It’s just too bad the fits are just all wrong - and I am by no means hipster thin and yet the shirts just have way too much volume and length - if only they were a bit more tailored and cropped. All that being said I will still be lulled into going and trying on the array of chambray workshirts. Especially that red.
One place at J.Crew you can’t go wrong is with their ties and their knits, of which I see a some nice options in the look-book. And if you’re like me - someone who gets just about every sportcoat or blazer tailored before wearing - from a value to style point of view they have you covered as well. All in all I am very impressed with what Im seeing from them. Thanks to Secret Forts for posting such great scans. I’ve pulled together my favorite images here.
As I write this I’m on my way to the Far East yet again and I’m sitting in the airport lounge shopping around the web for another pair of shades. I sadly misplaced my vintage wayfarers a few weeks back and so I’m on the hunt for a solid replacement I can love for a long time. Oddly I’ve been very good with my sunglasses and have neither lost or broken a pair in years and so now I’m left wearing frames that I’ve had around for a while but are old purchases that just haven’t held up to the changing winds of trend. One of my long time favorites, Rag & Bone, seems to be giving me a nice option to consider. I personally would choose the wayfarer-esque option in the very nice dark tortoiseshell hey’re offering. These could be a good option depending if the dimensions fit my big noggin. Unfortunately the biggest issue is I will have to wait until Spring to try them on.
As bittersweet as it is that Swaim Hutson is no longer producing Obedient Sons, I’m encouraged by what I’m seeing from Generra. He’s making a label I never would have paid any attention to pop up on my radar. Swaim has had a very short time to add his own point of view to Generra’s basics-centric collection, but you can already see his hand all over it. A very neutral palette of beige and grey was energized with pops of orange and marine blue. Shrunken proportions and soft tailoring were highlighted with cropped shorts all worn in an very relaxed way. Click on the images to see great closeups.
One thing is certain, John Bartlett knows what a large swath of men want to wear. He will never be called ground-breaking, in fact you might as well call this the Sperry collection because it is as if the two labels were designed for each other.
That being said, I’m not featuring pieces from the collection due to their leading edge star-power - the simple fact is come Spring you are going to need some new clothes and as the economy is dictating these days you might be looking for some value. Among the usual spots we all go to like Uniqlo or Topman, we now have another option for great affordable items. With everything other than the jackets retailing for under $100, I’m sure many of us can kind find a couple things we could wear.
Although I’m a man who can where some color, my favorites from the collection are the more subdued grey tones within the collection. But Bartlett does do a great job of mixing pattern and color to create a perfect summer attitude. Click on the images to see some great detail.
Richard Chai has gone for a more thematic approach this season and moved away from his rugged workwear beginnings and moved into more airy direction. Although some of the shear fabrics have skewed way too far to the other side of masculinity, Chai has taken the light layering seen on many European runways, tailored it and made it all a bit more wearable. His mens lines have always been grunge in a Kurt Cobain kind of way but his intentions this season were to create a sort of modernize iteration of it. A subtle beige windowpane was one of the only patterns used, showing up on shorts, knits and anoraks. Mismatched stripes and plaids were layered in harmony with generously cut pants, creating an intriguing contrast of pattern and silhouette.
As usual we have the best close ups of the runway you’ll find anywhere and some great shots of Chai’s collab with Keds. Click on the images to enlarge them.
On Saturday Band of Outsiders showcased a decidedly more grown-up and mature collection opting for a simpler, all-California aesthetic for Spring 2010. The label’s trademark cropped and fitted looks got just a bit more relaxed this season which is where everyone’s cuts are moving these days and some of the real highlights are the more formal items in the collection - the shrunken tux, the grey suiting, the sear-sucker blazer paired with grey marl sweatpant, and the dip-dyed tie over the pale yellow oxford and navy trench. Many of our images are larger than they appear on the this page so click on them to enlarge them, and twe have the best close-ups on the you’ll find anywhere (if not let us know).
I have to say that having some experience with Keds and knowing how little support they have in creating mens product I was surprised to see they have teamed up with designer Richard Chai to create a footwear collection for Spring/Summer 2010. The collection is not much more than their classic CVO remixed in new colors and materials with a zipper closure, but the mix of white, grey, and black and tonal prints is thoughtfully restrained. I’m sure these will cost a premium over there mundane brothers and sisters from the mainline but they should be worth it.
Dr.Marten has been showing a lot of freshness over the last couple years while riding the wave of the 8-Eye boot’s resurgence. At Premium Berlin in July they continued that movement by expanding on their existing constructions and doing them in fresh ways.
There is no doubt that the kilty and tassle loafer are back in a big way and this season the Doc pulled out their Adrian Loafer from their 80’s archives to take advantage of that. But what I really like is what they were showing on the shoe for Spring/Summer 2010. They featured the shoe in smooth fullgrains on white contrast outsoles. As any regular reader here knows, we are suckers for light contrast outsoles and this reminds us of the APC boat shoes we missed out on.
We’re walking a fine line of being a little Wood Wood heavy here lately, but for good reason. The Spring/Summer 2010 collection is exceptional. The label showcased the collection at Copenhagen Fashion Week last week and as usual Wood Wood is one of those collections best viewed styled in order to get the full impact of how the pieces work together. We have some of the best looks as well as some exclusive detail shots of key pieces seen on the runway.
It didn’t take Bruno to make us think “cheezy” when it comes to Austrian fashion. But not all Austrian fashion is gaudy, especially when, like Luis Trenker, they are based out of northern Italy.
The label, Luis Trenker, based on the iconic Austrian mountaineer, film director, architect, and actor by the same namesake is largely unknown to American shoppers, in some ways for good reason. Many of there items can be logo heavy in a way that most Europeans brands can be but as you peruse through their collection, like we did, you can find many gems that young men would eat up in the states. Although very much based in fashion the label always has the amazing life of their namesake to pull inspiration from. Which they do through heavy mountaineering looks and detailing.
At Pitti Uomo they featured many interesting looks from their Spring/Summer 2010 footwear lineup. One of the most interesting being their Mountaneering Boot. It’s a great new twist on a classic - it features a stitchout upper on a die-cut EVA lug sole creating a lightwieght and flexable boot. We aprticularly like the cream Napa uppers with the Red and Royal color pops. Perfect for the season - making for a nice light look for Spring.
Oyster Yachtwear is brand not many people are aware of. It is an Italian made nautical-themed footwear label from two Italian designers on two continents, both residing in centers of nautical style, New England and Italy. They exhibited their Spring/Summer 2010 collection at Pitti Uomo in June this year and had many great looks to contribute to this trend. Their backgrounds are very much in this style having previously worked with Tod’s, Camper, Nautica, Clarks, Rockport, Hilfiger, and Piaggio Vespa.
Yuketen, as a company, in many ways is like a bored inventor who has done it all and is ready to just have some fun with his craft. Yuketen has done just about every conceivable authentic New England style shoe you can think of and now they are taking many of their own classics and turning them on their heads.
At Capsule we found that Yuketen had essentially taken every style upper they do and mixed and matched them with unconventional outsole choices. The Spring/Summer 2010 Ring Boot pictured above is a perfect example of this. They took the classic Ring Boot they are known for and placed it on a thick, heeled boat shoe outsole, making for, in our opinion, a much more compelling shoe. But they didn’t stop there, they did them in array of oily tumbled nubucks including the crimson and lime colors you see here. We are always searching for new ways to freshen up old looks and we think this is the way to go next Spring.
We have more from our exclusive look at Wood Wood’s Spring/Summer 2010 collection. The collection’s Split Shirt is an interesting juxtaposition - an army style shirt made in a delicate mélange poplin. The shirt has a casual classic fit, featuring epaulets, and a traditional Japanese cigarette chest pocket. It will retail for $145.
For Spring/Summer 2010, Wood Wood is continuing with one our favorites parts of the current boating trends - marine sweaters. The Paris (pictured above) and the Antwerp sweater (below) both are great examples of how to bring freshness to such a classic look.
The Paris is a super-soft, light wool knit and features a button detail on shoulder, very much like this years Bartali. And will retail for $145.
The Antwerp is a crewneck cotton sweater in a 5 gauge mask. The yarn itself is crispy yet very soft cotton. The fit is very casual and comes in a classic striped look and an attached twill pocket on left arm to give it a sailor uniform feeling. Retailing for $128.